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    Seaneen Sullivan

    Seaneen Sullivan

    Championing the Brave | Dublin

    Seáneen is an Australian with Irish parents, who is “fiercely in love with Dublin”. Growing up in Perth’s Swan Valley she was both surrounded by produce like capsicums picked straight from the plants and reared on an Irish style of cooking based on ‘traditional, simple preparation’. Seáneen studied law but had also worked in a micro-brewery and in restaurants and was introduced to cooking that was “without pretensions or elitism, just what we do”. 

    When she came to Ireland in 2005, she was staggered and incredibly excited by the wealth of produce, but felt that people in Ireland were still looking to outside influences. She yearned for the simple, honest Irish cooking she knew. Soon she found there was a small set of people committed to this; producers, cooks, brewers, coffee people, who wanted to “make something that was their own,  plough their own furrow and stand up proudly on their own two feet saying ‘this is good, you will like it”. For Seáneen, the story of modern Irish food is the story of these people who grow, produce and cook it; the story of their bravery and singular passion to “do something firmly grounded in the place”. 

    L. Mulligan Grocer, the pub Seáneen runs with her business partners Michael and Colin in the old Dublin city neighbourhood of Stoneybatter, very much encapsulates all this. It is a place that at once celebrates the great Irish pub tradition and Irish drinks (craft beer, cider, whiskey, gin), captures the seasons through local produce and methods like pickling, curing and fermenting, and celebrates simple, honest Irish cooking.

    Seáneen is fascinated by urban agriculture and food production and by the tradition of urban distilling which existed in Ireland and is currently under-going a resurgence. L. Mulligan Grocer is bringing back the tradition of pubs being bottlers, maturing whiskey on site in their own casks. Seáneen is just about to embark on a Masters in Brewing and Distilling and is a partner in the Brown Paper Bag Project, a locationless brewery producing collaborative beers. She also writes about beer, whiskey and food and is the Irish contributing editor of Whisky Magazine.