Ireland's Hidden Heartlands itinerary

Morning

Lough Derg, at the southern end of the River Shannon, is serenity itself. Start your day in the lakeside “twin towns” of Killaloe, Co. Clare (western shore) and Ballina, Co. Tipperary (eastern shore). The picturesque towns are linked by an 18th century, 13 arch bridge – one of the most photogenic bridges in the country – and overlooked by rolling hills and grazing cattle. The lake can be enjoyed in numerous ways whether it’s spotting wildlife, angling, sailing, cruising or simply watching local comings and goings while sipping a cuppa at a lakeside café.

We head north, but it’s up to you which side of Lough Derg you take – both the east side (County Tipperary) and the west side (County Clare) have their delights. So, take another sip of your cuppa and decide. If you opt for the west, be sure to stop in Tuamgraney and visit McKernan Woollen Mills where colourful accessories are woven according to age-old techniques. Then pop around the corner to Wilde Irish Chocolates whose artisan chocolatiers produce an array of absolutely delicious delights. Other options include a sightseeing cruise with Killaloe River Cruises, a walk in Ballycuggeran Wood, or a boat tour to Inis Cealtra (Holy Island) from Mountshannon with local guide, Gerard Madden.

Afternoon

Have lunch in Tuamgraney. If you decide to explore the east side, from Ballina, the Graves of the Leinstermen are the starting point of a 6km heather-strewn looped trail that, at the summit of Tountinna, rewards walkers with a breath-taking panorama over the entire Lough Derg. Explore the nearby pretty village of Dromineer with its 10th century parish church or the marina in Garrykennedy. En route, allow time to get lost and discover the surprise of winding streets, tiny shops, and reminders of Ireland’s past including the 13th century Nenagh Castle. Have lunch in Paddy’s Bar, Terryglass or Larkin’s in Garrykennedy.

Activity

In the afternoon, spend time in the vibrant market town of Portumna where the River Shannon enters Lough Derg and whose name derives from the Irish Port Omna, meaning the landing place of the oak tree. Portumna Forest Park boasts 450 hectares of woodland with marked walking trails and its own population of fallow deer and red squirrel. Also in Portumna, walking and cycling enthusiasts can join the scenic 500km Beara Breifne Way, Ireland’s longest walking and cycling route. Portumna is also a base where you can hire a river cruiser. For culture and history, a visit to the imposing Portumna Castle with its formal gardens, walled kitchen gardens and tea rooms is recommended. For a complete contrast visit Portumna’s Irish Workhouse Centre, where the tragic stories of poor families during the Great Famine of 1846-1848 will rend your hearts.

Overnight

Overnight Dine and stay in one of the many bed and breakfasts, guest houses and hotels around Lough Derg.

OPTION A: The Lakeside Hotel, Killaloe-Ballina
OPTION B: Glamping at Pod Umna, Portumna

After breakfast, it’s a choice between challenging yourself or simply enjoying the views at Lough Key Forest and Activity Park. Whether it’s a relaxing boat trip or a Zipit high wire forest adventure, how you explore Lough Key will depend on whether you’re looking for laid back or thrilling. There’s enough to do here to keep you engaged for a whole day. And if taking time out is your thing, visit Boyle Abbey to learn of a different time when quiet contemplation, prayer and farming were the daily lot of the Cistercian monks who lived there. In the town of Boyle itself is King House, the early Georgian home of the King Family who sold the house to the British War Office when they moved residence to Lough Key. Today, King House holds varied collections of furniture, artefacts and art and, every Saturday, hosts the the award-winning Boyle Farmer’s Market in its walled courtyard.

Afternoon

For “food of rare tastiness”, wander down the street to the Drumanilra Farm Kitchen, where Liam and Justina Gavin sell produce from their organic farm 10 minutes out the road. After lunch at Lough Key or in Boyle town, we head north via Keadue, one of the most musical towns in Ireland. Here, the annual O’Carolan Harp Festival pays homage to Turlough O’Carolan, the 18thth century blind harper whose melodies are still widely played and enjoyed today. En route north towards Lough Allen, the northernmost lake on the Shannon, discover a distinctly different, underground side to the Hidden Heartlands. The nearby Miner’s Way walking trail follows the paths the miners travelled on their journey to work, and hints at an industrial past that is belied by the rural, serene beauty of the landscape. At the Arigna Mining Experience, your guide will be a former miner who will share his unique insights into what coal mining life was like in the area since its beginning in the 1700s until its closure in 1990. Head to Drumshanbo where Ireland’s first floating boardwalk at Acres Lake is in sharp contrast to the miner’s world of toil, din and confined spaces. Around here, it’s all about fresh air and wide, open spaces.

The Shannon Blueway which links Drumshanbo with Carrick-on-Shannon has a range of on-water and land based trails, and guided and unguided paddling, walking and cycling. Drumshanbo is also home to one of Ireland’s most popular gins – Gunpowder Gin – which is crafted in The Shed Distillery. Discover “where the Ordinary is made Extraordinary” on a fully guided tour through the distillery. If you’re peckish, the bright and spacious Jackalope Café serves a wide range of hearty Irish foods.

Overnight

Travel onto Cavan town

OPTION A Cabü by the Lake, Killeen, Co. Cavan
OPTION B Farnham Estate, Farnham, Co. Cavan

Morning

Not only is Cavan the source of two of Ireland’s main navigable rivers – the Shannon and the Erne – it is also home to over 350 lakes. So, whether it’s to don a wet suit or baiting a fishing hook, you’re never too far from the water in Cavan. Killykeen Forest Park, on the shores of Lough Oughter, has wonderful forest walking trails and views of the ruins of Clough Oughter Castle, located on its own island in the middle of the lake. Explore the area by bike or on water by renting a bicycle or a kayak from the Cavan Adventure Centre. The area is of international importance for its wildlife and is home to large flocks of Whooping Swans. If you’d like to know even more, book a guided ecology tour with Blue Damsel Discovery where your guide, Heather Bothwell will invite you to experience the local wildlife including the breathtaking colours and aeronautics of Cavan’s dragonflies and damselflies.

Afternoon

If you fancy a unique companion for the rest of your travels in the Heartlands, book onto a fun teddy bear workshop at Bear Essentials, which also houses the largest, and definitely the cuddliest, collection of teddy bears in Ireland. Lunch at Bawnboy or Ballyconnell.

With your teddy bear at your side, make your way to the Shannon Pot, the source of Ireland’s magnificent River Shannon. Just to the north lies the Cavan Burren, part of the Marble Arch Caves UNESCO Global Geopark. A fascinating place – both geologically and archaeologically – it has five walking trails that you can explore at your own pace, or learn about the secrets of the landscape from a knowledgeable Geopark guide. If you wish to venture further afield, engage the services of Marcus and his team at Rural Adventure - whose love of Cavan is matched by their ability to sing about it as you relax over a pint after the day’s ramble.

Overnight

Dinner and overnight

OPTION A Slieve Russell Hotel, Ballyconnell, Co. Cavan
OPTION B The Keeper’s Arms, Bawnboy, Co. Cavan

Morning

In a world where everything we do is heavily scheduled, and we are all super-connected, "la dolce far niente" (the Italian custom of doing nothing and enjoying it), is probably more important than ever for our mental and physical wellbeing. Before we leave Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands, there’s one last day to take stock. North Leitrim is making a name for itself as a place to discover the essence of life – of yourself, of the world around you. Treat yourself to a yoga retreat at Ardnahoo, where you can stay in one of their Ecocabins. Novice or regular yoga practitioner, a visit to Ardnahoo will leave you feeling utterly relaxed and rejuvenated! Described as a little slice of heaven it’s a good spot to escape the fast-paced everyday life and bring it back to basics of country living in a comfortable environment … and all in a WiFi-free zone.

More options from Slow Adventure Leitrim give visitors the chance to explore wild, open and natural places. Experiences range from an e-bike excursion with Electric Bikes to guided tours of the waterways in Canadian Canoes with Adventure Gently. Other options include the Organic Centre, described as having a timeless quality, so perfect for exploring the gardens and orchards or sign up to attend one of their workshops – a treat for all the senses.

Afternoon

Lunch in Dromahair. A place that’s certainly worth making time for is the glacially-sculpted Glenade, the "jealous valley". The newly-signposted Arroo Trail allows gentle exploration of dramatic scenery in this Special Area of Conservation – with views over the valley and lake to the Atlantic Coast. The area is not without its castles either; Parke’s Castle commands the eastern shore of Lough Gill and its guided tour helps you imagine life from hundreds of years ago.

For lovers of water, a boat trip on Lough Gill will bring you to the famous Lake Isle of Inishfree. And then there’s Glencar Waterfall, ever beautiful but particularly impressive after rain when the sound of the water crashing into the pool below is a memory in itself. Described as one of the most enchanting areas in Ireland, the beautiful landscape around Lough Gill and above Glencar were a rich source of inspiration for William Butler Yeats, and is immortalised in his poems "The Lake Isle of Inishfree" and "The Stolen Child".

Depart for Sligo.

<< Back to all Ireland's Hidden Heartland itineraries